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A change of Season may mean a difference in routine for many curlies and wavies. Depending on what climate your hair is facing will determine how your routine or products will change. Keeping your curls on point (and not pointing in all directions throughout the summer months, think Monica from Friends!) is a priority, right?!
Those who are still learning what a new season may mean for them and their hair start with the basics….ensure your hair has the right amount of moisture.
I know, I know, this is nothing new! We are constantly ensuring moisture and protein is balanced. However, during the summer months, an emphasis is needed on making sure the hair is either retaining the right amount of moisture or allowing the right amount of moisture in.
So what do you need to be aware of that can help determine what your hair needs:
Types of Weather:
Dry Heat/ Low dew points – If the air is dry, it will have a drying effect on your hair. The hair will need products with moisturising elements or ingredients that will draw in and allow what moisture there is to enter the hair from the surrounding air.
Wet/humid heat/High dew points – Air that is full of moisture will be absorbed by the hair cuticle if allowed. Allowing this extra moisture into the hair shaft will expand and lose its definition, becoming frizzy. Your hair will need products that stop this excess moisture from entering the hair.
High porosity – this hair type is more likely to suffer the worst in wet/humid heat due to the cuticle being exposed easily. Allowing excess moisture to be drawn in. laying down products that will help seal the cuticle during washing and styling will help keep unwanted moisture out.
Low porosity – with cuticles tightly bound and a fight to get moisture in, this hair type can become even drier in dry heat if it’s not moisturised properly during washing and styling.
Humectants & Anti Humectants – What are they?
Humectant ingredients add moisture to the hair by pulling moisture from the surrounding air. In high humidity conditions, humectants may attract too much water into the hair from the surrounding environment, making the hair swell or ‘puff’ out which means the curl or wave loses definition and becomes frizzy.
Some ingredients (but not all) to look out for:
Glycerin, Propylene glycol, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Hyaluronic acid, Sorbitol, Glucose, Fructose
Anti-Humectant ingredients help block unwanted moisture from the surrounding air entering the hair.
Some ingredients (but not all) to look out for:
Shea butter, coconut oil, avocado oil and some silicones, in small amounts.
So how should we use products with both humectants to ensure we have beautiful defined curls, all summer long?
Layer your ingredients! Laying down products in relation to their core ingredients and what their set out ultimately to achieve will give you the best results. Prepping and styling the hair should be approached in the same way we think about our skincare or applying make up, the order in which you apply products will determine the final look and longevity. Applying your face cream before a serum of your primer on top of your foundation is not going to give you great results! Same applies when thinking about what we’re putting on our hair.
Here are our top tips for moisturised, humidity resistance defined curls:
Make sure your clarifying regularly – when incorporating some of these ingredients into your summer routine clarifying becomes an important step to ensure build up doesn’t occur.
Build a good foundation – start with laying down a good moisture base to ensure your curls/waves are hydrated to start with. This can be done with a leave in or cream or *both if you feel you hair needs it.If you hair is dry or protein sensitive use products containing no protein or glycerin and if you want to use protein at this point use products with light containing proteins such as silk amnio acids
Tip – Try adding a few drops of your favourite leave in to a water bottle instead of applying the leave-in straight to the hair, this way you get the benefits of the leave in but can still use a cream as your first styler without it being to heavy!
Protein & Glycerin free
Hydrate– whether this a cream or gel ideally go for one that contains no protein or glycerin. This first layer of stylers is going to create the base to ensure curls/waves are moisturised as well as providing hold. *If you have used a cream instead of a leave in as your foundation you can skip this step!
Define – We still want to make sure we have defined curls, coils and waves that are set to withstand the heat so now we need to add a product that contains both protein & glycerin to help structure and hold.
Seal- To make sure the moisture and definition we have laid down stays put and to stop anymore unnecessary moisture entering, by applying a small amount of either a gel or mouse that contains no glycerine and if your protein sensitive no protein either will seal the. If you used a gel to start use the same one to finish.
*If your hair is exposed to dry heat you can skip this last step to allow the hair to draw in what moisture it needs
Lock it in – Finish with an oil..oils don’t hydrate they seal in moisture and whatever is already on the hair. By applying a small amount of a light weight oil will form a barrier and can help stop the hair cuticle expanding causing unwanted frizz.
Let’s sum it up..
You will probably find you will be tweaking your routine as the weather changes (especially if you live here in the UK!) switch up your products when needed and be mindful in which order you apply ingredients.
Enjoy your Summer with beautifully balanced moisturised curls!
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